Review: Martin Saban-Smith – Sunday 21st April, 2024

Martin demonstrated two items: a coloured bowl and a lidded box.

Coloured Bowl

For the bowl, Martin used a maple (possible sycamore) blank approximately 210mm x 75mm. The review will focus on the colouring rather than the bowl turning. The blank was held by a faceplate in a chuck. The outer shape was turned and a tenon added for holding the piece in the chuck later on. The bowl was sanded to 400 grit. Be sure to remove all evidence of tear out and tool marks as these will show up in the finished product and be there forever. The bowl was coloured using Martin’s Hampshire Sheen Intrinsic Colours. For this bowl Martin used a palette of Burnt Orange, Ruby, Flame and Honey. If the wood has some figure then first apply a black base coat and sand back before applying the other colours. This will enhance the figure. Martin started by applying the Ruby. Wipe it on using a paper towel folded into 16ths; don’t push the stain on. Feather the edge of the colour.

Burnt orange next, followed by Flame. Now allow to dry; a hair dryer is better than a heat gun as there is less heat. Apply second coats of each colour. If you make a mistake or there are issues then meths or sealer can be applied to remove some stain. If there is any raised grain then lightly sand with the highest grit or burnish with shavings.

Sand with 400 grit over the long grain to lighten some areas of stain. Be sure to feather the sanding. Wipe away any dust. Apply honey in those areas and allow to dry completely. Apply sanding sealer. Martin used Hampshire Sheen Pre-thinned Cellulose Sealer. Apply it quickly and evenly using a paper towel to avoid tide marks. If you use a spray sealer be sure to shake it for the recommended time. Some colour may come off onto the towel.

Next apply Hampshire Sheen Clear Gloss Lacquer with the lathe turned off. Apply using an arcing movement in 4-5 motions from the bottom to the edge. In all, Martin applied four coats. Turn the bowl 120 degrees and repeat. Turn the bowl another 120 degrees and repeat. Touch up any areas that might have been missed. Dry completely, ideally for 24 hours. Martin used a heat gun to start the drying process and then left the bowl to dry while demonstrating the box. We pick up the demo after after several hours.

After the lacquer has cured, there may be an orange peel effect on the surface of the bowl. To remove this, sand using 600 grit with the lathe running slow, but barely touching the surface. Wipe the surface with a clean towel and do the same with 800 grit and 1200 grit. At this point you could finish the bowl by applying a wax. Martin wanted to show us how to achieve a better shine. For this Martin used T-Cut Perfect Compound. Apply the compound liberally and allow to dry for a few minutes. Then wipe off by applying pressure with a paper towel with the lathe running. Repeat.

Finally, Martin applied a third coat but this time using a buffer in an electric drill.

Then the faceplate is removed and the bowl is held by the tenon in a chuck. The bowl is hollowed and sanded. Martin finished the bowl using four coats of Hampshire Sheen Citrus Burnishing Oil, burnishing between coats. (To avoid a fire, dispose of the used towels carefully.) Finish the outside of the bowl with a coat of microcrystaline wax.

Lidded Box

Round the blank with a spindle roughing gouge. Create a tenon on each end. Mark with pencil the lid and bottom locations. Hold in a chuck at the lid end. Create a tenon to fit the lid. Part off at the tenon leaving a witness line.

Hollow the lid using the witness line as a guide. Start the hollowing by making a hole with a gouge held at 11 o’clock. Stop at the witness line. Create a small ledge inside the lid where it will meet the tenon on the body. Clean inside with a scraper and clean the lip. Next mount the box body. Tidy up the face but don’t touch the tenon. Drill a hole using a Forstner bit.

Support with a cone centre in the tailstock. Roughly shape the bottom of the box. Adjust the tenon to achieve a tight fit for the lid. Take care or you will get a loose fit. Fit the lid to the box and support again with the tailstock and the cone centre. Shape the box and lid together. Sand.

Remove the tailstock support and apply masking tape to secure the lid to the box body. Remove the tenon on the lid. Create a dome shape to the lid and sand. Remove the lid. Hollow the box. Martin used the Hope 6mm hollower, followed by a swan neck cutter to get an undercut.

Refine the shape, especially the bottom, of the box. Sand. Part off. Put on a jam chuck to finish the bottom of the box and create a slight undercut so the box sits flat. Sand.

Tip of the Day

Martin stored his circular sanding disks in a compact holder made using sections of plumbing pipe. The sanding mandrel can then be pushed onto any of the grits and is immediately attached by the velcro!